Belkin Conserve Smart AV™ F7C007 Random Turn Off Fix

I have a Belkin Conserve Smart AV™ Auto-Off Surge Protector that after working great for many years started randomly turning off even though it had a load that should keep it turned on. I figured I would try and take a look at things inside and see if there was an easy fix. Warning!! Do not open one of these units if you do not understand the dangers of working with power line voltages!! The first challenge is to find the special bits used on the case screws. In a picture below is the screwdriver set I found that has the special Tri-point bit. The picture also shows the wall wart used to get the unit working again.

Once inside, I very carefully took a look at how it works, and monitored some voltages as it turned on and off, both due to load changes, and the random shutoffs. I found what looked to be a little 5V power supply based on a LNK302 chip that looked to be randomly failing. When the output was 5V, the unit worked correctly, when the voltage fell below 5V, the unit would turn off even though it has a load on. So I disconnected the inductor on the output of the little power supply as seen in a picture below.

Then I tacked on the output of a 5V wall wart power supply I had in a junk bin. It has been over a year now and the unit works good as new. Although this a bit of a hack as the wall wart is plugged into one of the non-switched outlets on the unit. Once again, DO NOT attempt repairs on equipment with line level power unless you fully understand the dangers and safety precautions needed when working with potentially lethal voltages. Also, I have no idea if they changed the design over the years so you should trace out the circuit in your unit, confirm the same failure mode, and that you can bypass and substitute a power supply in the same fashion.

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ASRock J5040-ITX Fails to Find Boot USB

Seemed no matter what USB stick I used, or how I created the bootable image, my ASRock J5040-ITX would fail to recognize the USB drive. That until I discovered that if I plugged the USB stick in to the black USB 2.0 ports on the rear panel I/O it works!

I was also having the same issue with updating the BIOS from 1.60 to 1.70 and once I put the USB stick with the new BIOS in the USB 2.0 port under the network port, it worked as expected. Posting incase anyone else is struggling with this issue.

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Listen to Bloomberg Radio WBBR with VLC

For years I have been using volumio to listen to radio stations with a Raspberry Pi, but recently it got a bug where it would constantly restart making it useless. Tried a few options, but they all had issues, and then I wondered if I can just use VLC to listen to web radio. Ends up you can. I used VLC media player 3.0.16 and the steps below did the trick:

Media->Open Network Stream->Network tab->Enter network URL:

Press Play

I would expect this to work as long as WBBR uses the service in the URL to stream the radio feed. This could change at any time, but I have been using this for sometime without issue. This could be used for other stations, but you need to find the URL for the feed. Took some digging to find the WBBR feed, but after kicking over many rocks, I finally found it.

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Convert Black+Decker DustBuster 16V CHV1410L to run on car plug

I had a 16-Volt Max Cordless Lithium DustBuster Hand Vacuum and the batteries were wearing out. I wanted to see if I could convert it to run on an auto cigarette plug. I used a PH1 screwdriver to remove the 6 screws that hold the clamshell case together. And after tracing the wiring, figured out you can remove the connector from the battery pack and install pins to connect the power switch and 12V power, and it works.

Black+Decker DustBuster CHV1410L

I found some solid wire that fit the snug in the connector, made a jumper that connects the wire from the switch to the motor, and soldered pig tails to the incoming 12V power. I drilled a hole in the area where the battery is, tied a knot and drilled a hole for a zip tie to reduce the movement of the incoming wire. Then I zip tied the 12V wires to the connector so the wire pins I used should stay steady. I put 12V on the new wire and turned the switch on, and it works.

While they claim it is a 16V Vacuum, I found that when you turned the power on, the lithium battery voltage dropped from 16V to the mid 13V volts. When I ran the unit off my new wire at 12.5V the motor drew about 6A. I used a 15V fuse in the auto power plug I used. Now my vacuum with warn out batteries has a second life running off car power or my 12V power packs.

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Run 4 D Battery Devices on 12V Car Plug

After going camping years ago and having a dead car battery when we tried to leave because the family used the car to charge phones, etc., I started a project to power the camping trips on solar power. This was many years ago before all the battery pacs and solar systems hit the market. Got all the devices covered with a 12V solar panel/battery system I designed except for the inflating/deflating of the air mattresses. The ones we had used 4 D batteries and consumed a significant current and seemed to be designed to work with the voltage sag a D battery has under heavy load. I found that you can buy step down converters on sites like and by searching for terms like “DC/DC Power Converter Regulator Module 12V/24V to 6V 5A Step Down Buck Adapter”. My 2 concerns were that the converters might running at or over their rated current, and they will not sag like a D battery will. So I worked out a circuit that allows two converters to work in parallel and has a sag similar to a D battery.

4 D Batteries Emulator

R1, R2 serve 3 functions: help to balance the load between the converters, add some sag similar to a D cell, and you can put a meter across them and monitor the current sharing. D1, D2 may not be needed, but they are there to make sure no current back feeds a converter.

I got my converters at and their product title was:
12V 24V to 5V 6V 10A DC DC Converter 8-36 Volt to 5 Volt 6 Volt 10 Amp Step Down Module Car Power Supply RCNUN CE RoHS

Below is the prototype I built. You can see the converters mounted back to back on a piece of scrap aluminum I had. The diode tabs are bolted to the metal to remove the heat they generate and the tabs have power so the sheet metal must not touch ground. This “temporary” prototype has been working well for many years. Maybe someday I will find the time to come up with a better case for it.

4 D Batteries Emulator Prototype

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Public IP Address Notification Emailer

Sometimes you want to know the IP address of a remote server, but it can have a dynamic address that can change. There are services that can provide this service, but I wanted something free and simple that also provided a heartbeat message from the remote server.

The idea is to have a bash script on a cron job that will call a remote server. This remote server will then know the public IP address of the caller and can send the information to an email address. Now the email messages will have the remote IP address and the emails also serve as heartbeat messages.

I have put the code I use to do this in GitHub for anyone that may want to do something similar.

A short coming of this system is you need to wait for the next cron run to get a changed address. That was not an issue in my application.

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Leitner rack on 1999 – 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Leitner no longer claims to have fitment for their racks on 1st Generation Chevrolet Silverado 1500 trucks. But I measured and measured, and it seemed to me that the racks for the current Silverados would fit. I contacted the guys at Truck Brigade and they said according to their measurements, it should fit. So I pulled the trigger and bought the rack. As you can see in the picture below, it fits. Thanks to Truck Brigade for taking the time to check my measurements, and Chevy for keeping the bed size stable. This is a standard box (6.5 ft.), Extended Cab 2006 Silverado. The rack I ordered: Leitner Designs Active Cargo System – Chevy Silverado 1500 (2007-2020) 6′ 6″ Bed.

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Minka-Aire Fan Reset Remote Code / Frequency RCS213

The 3 year old was playing with the fan remote and managed to take off the battery cover and scramble the code / frequency switches. It ends up relinking the fan and remote was easier than feared, but not knowing this, I tried to do it the hard way first.

Thinking I needed the get the code off of the fan receiver, I took the fan down. But the receiver had no switches on it. Instead there was a sticker saying to reprogram, remove power from the fan, and within 60 seconds, press the fan off button for 5 seconds. The light will flash to indicate the remote is paired and you are done. I did these steps and it worked as claimed. Note I went to the breaker box and turned off power there to make sure the fan had the power removed.

Posting this in a blog post in-case it helps someone else, and to remind me to not take the fan down the next time the codes get scrambled by our little cutie.

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Frigidaire Gas Range FFGF3053L How to Remove Top

I had some flaky igniters on a Frigidaire Gas Range Model FFGF3053LSF but was having a hard time finding out how to remove the top. It is obvious you need to remove the screws on the top that attach the burners, but it was not clear how to get the top to disconnect from the range body. Below are the 4 screws I needed to remove, after which I was able to pull forward and up and get the top off. The knobs are easy, just pull them off.

FFGF3053LSF front plate screw left
FFGF3053LSF front plate screw right
FFGF3053LSF top plate screw left
FFGF3053LSF top plate screw right
What it looks like under the hood. The front left burner has been removed for service.

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Prevent Slab, Copper Pipe and Ice Maker Leaks

We just had a bad copper pipe slab leak and have been dealing with on and off problems with the ice maker leaking. It is a long, sad story; to sum it up: we had to repipe the whole house, and ended up with a pressure gauge on the house plumbing. It was then I noticed that the water pressure was sometimes spiking to 100 psi. At first I thought we got a bad pressure regulator from the repipe company. They put a new one in, but the random high pressures continued. I finally figured out that when the hot water heater was heating the water, the pressure would rapidly rise. Makes sense, heating up water causes it to expand, and now that the plumbing system has no leaks, the water has no where to go and the pressure climbs. The solution, install an expansion tank where the water feeds the hot water heater. I also put a pressure gauge in so if I ever look up and see the pressure is not at 50 psi, I know something is not working correctly.

I get the feeling that if I had installed the expansion tank years ago, the copper pipes would have lasted many more years. Live and learn. Below is a pic of what the install looks like. Parts cost about $100. Repipe: $8,000 plus the cost to repaint the walls that got cut open.

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